French Polynesia’s Teti’aroa Has Been an A-Lister Retreat for Centuries


Once you stay on a tropical island paradise already, the place do you go to flee all of it? Within the 18th century, the final word trip vacation spot for the chiefs of Tahiti was a teeny atoll a half-day’s sail away. Generally known as Teti’aroa, the ring of 12 lush islets framed an azure lagoon teeming with turtles and dolphins. Again on the mountainous volcanic island of Tahiti, the chiefs dominated over a couple of thousand native Mā`ohi individuals. However on Teti’aroa, rulers and their entourage may relax in methods not doable at dwelling.

Tahitian chiefs weren’t the final A-listers to vacation, out of the general public eye, on Teti’aora. Whereas filming 1962’s Mutiny on the Bounty within the space, actor Marlon Brando grew to become so enchanted that he finally purchased the atoll and labored to safeguard its pure magnificence. Consequently, the one developments on Teti’aroa right now are the Tetiaroa Society, a conservation nonprofit, and The Brando, a luxurious eco-resort. The secluded retreat has drawn celebrities resembling Leonardo DiCaprio and former president Barack Obama, who penned his memoir there in 2017.

For native Tahitians, “Teti’aroa is the jewel that we wish to actually defend,” says Hinano Murphy, cultural director of the Tetiaroa Society. The group goals to preserve each the pure and cultural heritage of the alluring atoll, about 30 miles north of Tahiti. Each islands belong to present-day French Polynesia, positioned within the coronary heart of the South Pacific, about 2,700 miles south of Hawaii and three,700 miles east of Australia.

Long before Barack Obama, Leonardo DiCaprio, and other celebrities visited, Teti'aroa was a getaway for Tahitian elites.
Lengthy earlier than Barack Obama, Leonardo DiCaprio, and different celebrities visited, Teti’aroa was a getaway for Tahitian elites. Courtesy Tetiaroa Society

To doc Teti’aroa’s historical past, the nonprofit is working with archaeologists and native communities to weave collectively scientific knowledge and conventional information, together with oral histories, songs, and indigenous place-names. Murphy, for instance, has been conducting interviews with elders who stay alongside Tahiti’s northern shore, the place the 18th century chiefs who owned Teti’aroa dominated. She says plenty of information has been misplaced, nevertheless it’s essential to gather the tales and different particulars that stay. “We would like our kids, for the long run, to know what we knew,” says Murphy.

The rising story confirms Teti’aroa was the holiday spot for the royal household of Te Porionu’u. However the islets additionally served different features: Leaders from different islands and their delegations convened there for rituals and negotiations. The youngest members of mainly households additionally partook in ritual fattening, or ha’apori, on the atoll: They holed up in dwellings, out of the solar, and consumed a high-calorie fermented paste of breadfruit and coconut water. After weeks they might emerge, trying plum royal: pale and fats.

Ongoing analysis additionally reveals that Teti’aroa has been a prized vacation spot for native Polynesians for much longer than thought—most likely ever because the archipelago’s largest islands, Tahiti and Moorea, had been first settled, some 900 years in the past. Archaeologists Guillaume Molle of Australian Nationwide College and Aymeric Hermann of Germany’s Max Planck Institute and the French Nationwide Centre for Scientific Analysis (CNRS) started engaged on Teti’aroa a few decade in the past, when The Brando resort was being constructed. Throughout development, the crew often got here throughout ruins and alerted archaeologists from the College of French Polynesia, on close by Tahiti. Molle and Hermann, then doctoral college students on the college, visited the atoll at totally different occasions to check the finds, together with a burial and an open-air temple often called a marae.

Teti'aroa's sandy shores sit atop a partially exposed coral reef that frames a shallow lagoon.
Teti’aroa’s sandy shores sit atop {a partially} uncovered coral reef that frames a shallow lagoon. Courtesy Tetiaroa Society

The excursions led to a long-term collaboration with the Tetiaroa Society that started with an intensive survey. The staff got down to map each archaeological function on the atoll with the assistance of mid-Twentieth century aerial pictures, high-resolution satellite tv for pc pictures, and LiDAR pictures, created by flying a laser over the bottom to measure floor topography. Additionally they searched on foot.

Over the course of three years, they shuttled from islet to islet by boat, and combed the terrain for indicators of stone partitions or instruments resembling ax-like adzes. “We walked dozens and dozens of kilometers throughout the islands. Even when it doesn’t look huge, it’s really fairly huge whenever you stroll round on daily basis for 4 weeks from morning until night time,” Molle says. Their day by day hunt included hacking by means of dense ferns, vines, and different vegetation, all whereas taking care to not hurt forest crabs or nesting birds, resembling red-footed booby.

Surveying the islets on foot required both hacking through dense vegetation and carefully avoiding any harm to local wildlife.
Surveying the islets on foot required each hacking by means of dense vegetation and punctiliously avoiding any hurt to native wildlife. Courtesy Tetiaroa Society

The survey, published in the Journal of Pacific Archaeology in 2019, recognized 115 archaeologically vital buildings, from humble cooking stones to platforms for dancing and archery—the latter, a “sport accomplished solely by excessive rank chiefs or younger warriors,” says Murphy. The outcomes bolster conventional tales and ethnographies, which depict the atoll as a multi-purpose retreat and foraging spot for sources resembling fowl feathers, turtles, and coconut oil.

“The survey that Guillaume and Aymeric have been doing with Tetiaroa Society has actually been fascinating to see the kinds of websites that they’re discovering,” says Jennifer Kahn, an archaeologist at William and Mary School. Khan researches French Polynesia however has not been concerned within the ongoing venture on Teti’aroa.

Kahn believes holidaying on Teti’aroa might have been a welcome break for Tahiti’s elite within the 18th century: Again dwelling, the chiefs strictly adhered to tapu, which regulated how members of various social lessons behaved. As an example, chiefs couldn’t stroll on the bottom of a commoner’s home, and as an alternative needed to be carried atop attendants’ shoulders. Day in, time out, these restrictions most likely felt exhausting. “In the event you had been a chief, I don’t assume you can stroll out of your own home and go fishing simply,” says Kahn, who provides that, if solely individuals of the identical standing had been current on Teti’aroa, such inflexible codes of habits would have been relaxed. “Funnily sufficient, Teti’aroa right now serves the identical goal,” she provides, referencing Obama’s 2017 go to.

Highlights of the 2019 survey embrace figuring out 20 marae, the place Polynesians held ceremonies that honored deities and ancestor spirits. Throughout the archipelago, marae of the elite typically featured an oblong, raised courtroom, surrounded by upright stone slabs, although particulars assorted from island to island. Marae on Teti’aroa exhibit structure consultant of various islands. “We suppose it implies that these tales about Teti’aroa being a spot the place royal households gathered from different islands might be true. They constructed marae to their very own ancestors, in their very own fashion,” says Frank Murphy, govt director of the Tetiaroa Society and Hinano’s partner.

<em>Marae</em>, open-air temples, generally featured a rectangular, raised court, surrounded by upright stone slabs.
Marae, open-air temples, typically featured an oblong, raised courtroom, surrounded by upright stone slabs. Courtesy Tetiaroa Society

Archaeologist Hermann additionally measured the geochemical make-up of 83 artifacts or architectural options crafted from volcanic rock, which doesn’t naturally happen on the coral reef atoll of Teti’aroa. His evaluation, published in Archaeology in Oceania in 2019, revealed that about 90 p.c of the fabric probably got here from close by Tahiti or Moorea. However a number of samples got here from distant sources; one stone instrument fragment, found on a Teti’aroa dancing platform, might have been sourced from andesite outcrops in Tonga or Fiji, 1,500 miles west, or New Zealand, practically 2,500 miles southwest.

Although the staff anticipated to seek out ruins from royal retreats, they had been shocked by the numerous modest websites, unfold throughout the islets, which suggests a good variety of commoners inhabited Teti’aroa year-round, probably earlier than it was a royal retreat. The researchers hope radiocarbon courting will make clear when totally different teams used the island. “A fairly large neighborhood of individuals (had been) residing there, and really probably exploiting the totally different sources accessible on this atoll for a really very long time,” says Molle. The neighborhood would have wanted to get fundamentals resembling breadfruit and volcanic rock from bigger neighboring islands, most likely by means of commerce. Teti’aroa “was positively a part of a much bigger community of relationships,” Molle provides.





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